Today marks our 30th anniversary, which is why we are taking this trip. Over the years, most of our anniversaries have been noted with dinner out and a bottle of champagne. Five years ago, we decided that instead of doing something just for ourselves, we would finally bring our sons to Europe. We had always wanted to share our love of Europe with them and with them both in high school, time was running out. We have so many cherished great memories with them from that crazy, whirlwind tour. But this time was about us. I honestly don’t know how that much time flies by so fast. Obviously, being married 30 years isn’t all fairytale “happily ever afters,” but when you’re married to your best friend, even the tough times aren’t terrible. Your reflex in those bad times becomes to either lean on the other, or if they need to be leaning, to be the support they need. Sometimes we’ve both had to just hold each other up to get through.
So, as far as anniversaries go, this wasn’t romantic in the traditional sense. Well, except for that part about being in France, on bikes, together. We packed up in Chinon, found some breakfast and lunch and started trying to get out of the darn city. I have printed maps we bought that show routes into and out of the side-trip towns, but Google was trying to take us another way – one that took us up the cobblestone switchback below the castle. Ouch! We walked, non-apologetically, up. Then it took us onto back country roads – not all bad because we were riding through vineyards some of the time. I’m pretty sure the EuroVelo route would have been easier, but, oh well.
After over an hour we were finally on the route. After a while, we found a lovely picnic spot on the river and ate our sandwiches. Then, on to Langeais. Getting into town was very easy with almost no climbing. There was bike parking beside the castle. It wasn’t guarded, but we keep all our valuables in our front bags and take those with us every time we leave our bikes. We locked up the bikes and headed to the castle. This one had been restored by an industrialist in the early very 20th century, complete with period furniture, tapestries, and art. This is the castle where Charles VIII and Ann de Bretagne were married in secret, setting up the unification of Bretagne with France. There was a full size display of what that scene must have looked like based on accounts, in the room in which it took place. It was a lovely, interesting visit.
When we had arrived, rain was just moving in, so we brought our rain jackets in with us, not knowing how much would be outside. As we finished the self-guided tour, the rain had let up and we were pretty pleased. We wiped off our seats, stowed our rain jackets, then heard thunder off in the distance. Back on with the rain jackets, adding the helmet covers, and I got my shoe covers on. By the way, those really only work under rain pants, which we hadn’t put on, but it did keep my Fitbit on my shoe dry.
We set off for the last 18 miles to Tours. Pretty soon it was pouring rain. But we couldn’t help smiling. What are you going to do? People coming the other way were smiling and waving. There was even a large group of gradeschool age kids out with some chaperones coming the other way, laughing, yelling and waving. The trickiest bits were where the pavement turned to wet cobblestone, but we kept to the sandy edge of those parts to be safe. As we got into Tours, the rain let up. It took a bit of navigation to find the tourism office, but we got there in plenty of time. There weren’t many room choices in the downtown area, but I found a room at the Europe Hotel right on the main square. Unfortunately, they only had a room with 3 twin beds left…for our anniversary! Ah well. It’s convenient, priced well, and has a nice shower and toilette. We had just got our bikes stored and luggage in our room when a realy strong storm moved in. I shut the French doors, but the wind nearly blew them back open and it took my body weight to push them closed again. Then it started hailing! So glad we were already inside!
After 40 miles today, we’re beat. After showers, we found a nice place nearby for a quick dinner of omlettes, salad, frites, and beer again. Perfect to recharge! We’ll stay here a couple days and are looking at the bus tours to some of the best castles in this area.
Asides: Brian remembered the bicycle touring sketch from Monty Python today. https://youtu.be/Grad9m2K5g0
Also, every time we got to a castle, I think of Billy Crystal saying, “have fun storming the castle!” in Princess Bride. https://youtu.be/AjUmULa0R-8
Lunch on the river |
We caught a drawbridge demonstration for school children as we walked up |
Langeais |
Royal feast display |
Reenactment of the wedding |
The oldest known keep still standing |
Loom demonstration |